Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. I mean look how they photographed those models. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Perhaps try Graham Browne. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. More than Poole, but less than A&S. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? Here is a simple way to think about it. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. Interesting point. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. hi Simon, very interesting article. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. Thanks Simon. Like this article? I have checked them out however note that: The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. Wonderful. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. This is slightly out of my budget. Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Hi Simon Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Thanks! However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Just one point on pricing. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Kind Regards As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. So should be here for the long term. First fitting was very compromised. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Today. B.) Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post Thanks for your reply. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Fit not good. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Any thoughts as to where I might find one? The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. In my case, a long body and short legs! I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. top of page. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Wonderful site! B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. No, not necessarily. It looks great. Still strikes me as cracking value though. Thanks!! Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. Thank you. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Size given is an estimate. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Watch. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Thank you in advance. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Richard, Hi Simon Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). Explore. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. But when in 1760 Read More. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Thank you very much for all your great advice! Let me know if that doesnt answer your question On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Vergallo would be a great starting point. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? Hi Calvin, Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Simon. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? That pocket square fold is on point. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Any other recommendations? With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? Im looking forward to stopping by! A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. Thanks Simon, I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. P.S. Cheers. shoes, shirts, etc.)? Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Bravo! Wondered if you had any thoughts ? I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Thanks very much. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? The prices are comparable. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. I want to have a morning suit made. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. Thanks for all the informative articles. 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Just a couple of suggestions the person you first meet about a garment also do pattern!